Days 43 and 44 - The Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Today is my mother's birthday. Everyone wish Lisa a happy (now belated) birthday!

There was frost on the ground in the morning. Good thing I got the cabin.

I rode about 20 miles, including a short 1000 foot climb over Cerro Summit. After the climb, it was going to be all downhill into the city of Montrose. However, I noticed a sign about 8 miles short of Montrose that read, "Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park." I was actually looking for this sign. The map I own has lots of nice things written about it. I also spoke with the salesman in Gunnison yesterday about Black Canyon. He recommended I see it. I pulled off my route and in towards the park.

The only problem was that to get into the park, I would have to climb 1800 feet in 5.5 miles. On top of that, I had noticed my camera was no longer working. Once I noticed the issue with my camera I turned my bike around back towards Montrose and was extremely close to leaving. At the very last second, I decided I had to at least ask someone or see some pictures that were taken from the park. There was a general store right on route 50 as you turn towards the park. I walked over there to talk to the owner.

He told me it was amazing up there. He still goes up there to see the views he has seen many times before. I was still unsure. I began to have crazy thoughts like how far will this put me behind schedule, if I go see Black Canyon, then where will I end up for the day? Will I make it to San Francisco?

What schedule?!?! Why do I need to make it to San Francisco?!?!

I put on my helmet, turned my bike back around and clipped in. I finished the climb in 45 minutes and got into the park by 11AM. At the top, I came across three other local cyclists. One of them told me which way to go into the park for the best views.

Once in the park, there is a 7 mile road that runs along the rim of the canyon and ends in a cul-de-sac. Along this road, there are numerous overlooks down into the canyon. As soon I arrived at the first overlook behind the visitor's center, I was amazed by the view.

Obviously, my camera started working once I got into the park. I think the issue was that it was cold and the electrons weren't moving fast enough. The sun was out and the camera was warmed up. 

At the visitor's center, I was approached by a woman who asked me if I had rode my bike up into the park. I told her I had and eventually I told her about my trip. We chatted for a bit and then I moved on to the rest of the park. 

As I was riding along the rim of the canyon, I was passing all the overlooks. I did not stop and walk out to the overlooks because I would ruin my cycling shoes if I did. I decided to ride all the way to the end of the road, swap my Bontrager's for Tevas, take a short walk, and then ride back down the road and stop at all the overlooks. Here is the view from the last overlook.

Just as I was about to ride away, a car driven by the lady I had spoken with at the visitor's center pulled up. We began talking again and she had two girls with her. One was a very pretty girl from Switzerland who was a foreign exchange student going into 11th grade. Very cool. The other was in the 8-10 year old range, perhaps. She was quiet and I never got introduced. 

I told them I wanted to be able to spend more time in this park but was limited because I had no food. Within seconds, I was handed a Vitamin Water and a plastic bag full of food. I was given a half loaf of cheese bread, a quarter pound of both turkey and roast beef , and a bucket of carrots and celery.

I told her that I could not take all this food. It was nearly 5 pounds of food! So, she took out about half a pound of food and then put in a half a pound of cherries. There was no discussion. I had to take the food.

We chatted more and I gave Switzerland (I am bad and never got any of their names) the URL of this blog and I expect at least one comment! They are the reason I was able to spend as much time as I did in Black Canyon.

They went on a hike and I went over to the picnic table. I ate as much of the food as I could and then packed the remaining roast beef and bread in my backpack. I ate every single cherry but didn't do so well with the carrots and celery...

After I stuffed myself, I rode back along the rim, this time stopping at all the overlooks. Good thing I have a lot of practice riding in my sandals.

That's the Gunnison River down there. 

Most amazing views I have ever seen in my life. 

As it was becoming later in the day, I began to think it would be fun to camp up here. At around 4PM, I made my way back to the visitor's center to ask about where I could do it. The park ranger said there was a campground right by the visitor's center with picnic tables and fire pits. However, there was also a backcountry trail that went all the way down to the Gunnison River in the bottom of the canyon and I could camp there for free. 

It was a mile long, very steep trail that went down 1800 feet and was unmaintained with loose rocks. It sounded wild. He could see I was thinking about doing it. Then, he noticed I was wearing sandals and noted how I was really going to wish I had better footwear for a hike like that. Being sensible, I agreed and went to check out the more accessible campgrounds. 

I walked over to them and saw pick-up trucks and cars and kids and dogs and campers. There was no way I was camping up here. This is NERF camping. This is the kid's section. This is the "I'm fat and out of shape" section. I don't belong in this section. Besides, the ranger was right, of course I wish I had better footwear. Was that going to stop me from doing it? It would also be nice if someone carried my gear down for me. The fact that that wasn't going to happen wasn't going to stop me either. There are always reasons not to do something. But, what I kept telling myself was, "If not now...when?"

I could not answer that. So, it was going to be now. I went back to the visitor's center, talked to a different ranger who told me something about bears and what to look for so I don't get lost. After that went in one ear and out the other, she gave me a backcountry permit, I repacked my bike and backpack, locked up the bike, and then hit the trail.

They installed some chain to help you along. 

Getting lower.

I made it!

It took me about an hour to complete the mile down. I spent over half the time on my butt. It was a good thing I left my padded cycling shorts on.

Richard Halliburton style.

I set up camp and then had dinner. Dinner was trail mix, a Nature Valley bar, peanut butter crackers, a Cliff bar, animal crackers, half a loaf of cheese bread, the rest of the roast beef, all washed down with some Gunnison River water (UV purified, I might add).

That's right...no tent.

Looking intellectual with the new shirt and spectacles. 

I got into the sleeping bag early to stay warm and comfortable. 

The only human in the canyon that night.

My view.

While I was waiting for the stars to come out, I read some Marcus Aurelius courtesy of my Uncle Joe. Here are a couple passages I thought I would share. 

"...you are making an inopportune rejection of what Nature has given you today, if all your mind is set on what men will say of you tomorrow."

"...to be concerned solely with the life which you are now living, the life of the present moment, then until death comes you will be able to pass the rest of your days in freedom from all anxiety..."

It became too dark to read. This was fine because, with no offense to Marcus, I now had the stars to keep me entertained. I slept well. The temperature never went below 50 degrees and I didn't see any bears.

I woke up around 6:30AM and took my time packing up my campsite. I refilled the CamelBak with more Gunny water and began my ascent. Here are a couple more pictures of the river. 

As I was climbing up, I got to a certain section that seemed entirely too steep. I was nearly standing upright. This could not be the correct path to take. There was no way I came down this route. I descended a few feet and looked around for an alternate path. There was no other option so I started climbing up again. I made it a bit further than the previous attempt but, eventually decided it was way too steep, it could not be right, and turned back around to descend. I stood there for a few minutes exploring other options. There was really nowhere else to go. I remember the ranger mentioning something about staying to the left of the big boulder. Or was it to the right? Regardless, there were big boulders everywhere! I decided to go for it and clambered up the steep slope. 

It ended up being the correct way to go. Immediately after, I climbed up a large pile of rocks that were to the right of the path I was supposed to be on. The rocks had an average weight of probably 15-20 pounds and since it was so steep, I was using my hands and feet to climb. The issue was, the rocks were very loose and as I pushed off with my hands, large rocks would fall down towards my feet. Also, rocks that were balanced on other rocks that I was touching, would fall down towards me as well. It got a little out of hand for a few minutes but, once I found the path, it was slow and steady to the top. 

The sun reaching down into the canyon as I make my ascent.

The climb up took almost twice as long as the way down. 

Once I arrived back at the visitor's center, I repacked my bike to the way I originally had it and rolled back down to the general store on route 50. I thanked the owner for recommending I make the ride. I continued on my way into Montrose. 

As I was riding through the city of Montrose, from the sidewalk, a man asked where I had ridden from. I pulled onto the sidewalk and we talked for a bit. As we were chatting, another guy joined the conversation and finally a third man walking by stopped to talk. What a friendly city! The first man I met was Gary and the second was Kurt. Both are pastors in Montrose. Gary however, is an avid cyclist and it was a pleasure speaking with him about my trip. The third was a man named Brook and he was accessing properties for the auditor or something. I gave them the URL of the blog so we can expect a comment from them.  

L to R: Brook, Kurt, and Gary

After meeting with them, I kept riding on to Ridgway. I had some more beautiful views along the way.

From all the climbing around in the canyon last night, I am covered in dirt and in need of a proper washing. In Ridgway, I found a place called the Adobe Inn. It is actually a Mexican restaurant that has 3 rooms in the back they let people stay in. I had a wonderful Mexican burrito with chicken and beans along with a couple margaritas. I am ready for sleep. 

Finally, please click on the images to really see the details of the Black Canyon. My little 5.1 mega pixel hardly does it justice anyways. 

View Where is Joe? in a larger map

life=good